In addition to paying tribute to the classics, the 2023 autumn and winter Milan Fashion Week also showed bold and unruly creativity.  

As the capital of fashion, Milan, with a more positive design orientation in autumn and winter 2023, leads the fashion circle through the haze of the epidemic and war. From clothing elements to show planning, brands strive to show unruly Bold and creative, through a detached perspective, re-examine the past, present and future of fashion craftsmanship.

creative director not at home

Gucci suddenly announced at the end of last year that it had parted ways with Alessandro Michele, its creative director for 7 years, which not only shocked the fashion circle, but also made the men's wear show in January and the women's wear show in February show an embarrassing state of "no adults at home".

Although shortly after the menswear show, it was announced that Sabato De Sarno, hired from Valentino, would take over as the creative director. However, his personal debut would not come out until September, which was urgent. Therefore, the creative team teamed up to create a new autumn and winter women's collection. Makes for an excellent time to reflect on the past. 

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The team broke up all the classic elements of the three creative directors who polished Gucci's signature in the past 30 years, and re-examined the transformation and evolution from a contemporary modern perspective, whether it is Tom Ford's extreme sex appeal, Frida Gianni's femininity and elegance, or Alessandro Michele. The seasons and the beautiful illusions of men and women are all beautifully blended in the series.

Gucci also invited three models who once walked the show for the brand in the 1990s, and they returned to the stage 30 years later, full of tribute, which undoubtedly shows that the inspiration of this season has already been internalized into the soul of building the brand, even if there is no helmsman Leading the way, "Gucci" itself is the real core.

Gucci, who is short of creative director this season, has broken up and reorganized the classic styles of the three creative directors in the past 30 years.

Gucci invites back the models who once walked the show for the brand in the 1990s to return to the catwalk.

Gucci invites back the models who once walked the show for the brand in the 1990s to return to the catwalk.

Goddess came

Inspiring female imagery has always been one of the indispensable and important sources of inspiration on the show. Max Mara used the free-spirited Émilie du Châtelet in the 18th century as the muse of a series of designs for autumn and winter. This unrestrained woman who is also a mathematician, physicist and philosopher not only has advanced thinking far ahead of her own time, but also often enters salons that only entertain men at that time and contacts elites by disguising as men.

From sleek trousers to coats draped over one shoulder, everything was inspired on the runway.

Max Mara uses the heroine of the Age of Enlightenment, the Marchioness of Châtelet, as her muse for this season, presenting her modern looks in cross-dressing in a contemporary way.

FERRAGAMO is inspired by legendary actresses such as Sophia Loren and Marilyn Monroe.

Although the founder, Mr. Salvatore Ferragamo, who started out as a shoemaker, made his mark as early as the 1930s in making shoes for movies, it was his private shoemaking and exclusive designs for these legendary movie stars that made him truly famous.

Creative Director Maximilian Davis explained: "Their elegance and beauty are fascinating. I use their dressing style as inspiration, and at the same time, I focus on a new interpretation of contemporary fashion aesthetics."

FERRAGAMO this season is inspired by the legendary actresses of old Hollywood, including Marilyn Monroe and Sophia Loren, who have worked closely with the brand, are all muses.

The bright red in FERRAGAMO's shape represents the red lips of Marilyn Monroe.

If the heroines of the Enlightenment Age are too far away from the Hollywood actresses of the past, the muse of Fendi and Dolce & Gabbana is relatively "down-to-earth".

Emphasizing "sensuality but not sexy", Dolce & Gabbana practiced the magnificent brand aesthetics through a series of shapes inspired by "underwear". Buttocks Gold" Kim Kardashian (Kim Kardashian) pays tribute.

Dolce & Gabbana's autumn-winter coat emphasizes hourglass curves.

(Associated Press)

The silhouettes and textures of many of Dolce & Gabbana's looks are reminiscent of Kim Kardashian's wardrobe.

(AFP)

The new series of Fendi is the wardrobe of Delfina Delettrez Fendi, the fourth-generation heir of the brand family and the current art director of the brand’s jewelry. She makes good use of the rich changes created by binary opposing elements, skillfully blending the tailoring of men’s clothing and the softness of women’s clothing Atmosphere, elegant yet individual, exquisite but practical, it is no wonder that creative director Kim Jones revealed in an interview after the show that he had a deep memory of his first impression of her, "The Fendi she wore is not only fashionable, but also has personality. It was such a complete twist, it fascinated me."

Fendi is inspired by the wardrobe of Delfina Delettrez Fendi, the fourth generation descendant of the brand family, which ingeniously integrates the characteristics of men's and women's clothing.

back to party

After a blink of an eye for three years, everyone needs a grand party to announce the arrival of a new era, and this kind of fun atmosphere is also spreading on the catwalk.

Gucci's impressive opening look featured a crystal-encrusted bikini over a satin maxi dress, followed by a voluminous (faux) fur coat and a long coat with sequined fringe , not only has the popular sexy style from the 1990s to the early 2000s, but also reminiscent of the party scene of luxury and money.

Gucci's autumn-winter collection is reminiscent of the party scene of luxury and luxury.

(Da Zhi)

The Gucci show is full of gorgeous details.

Remember when Rihanna stepped onto the halftime stage of the Super Bowl in February and picked up her own powder to touch up her makeup in front of a global audience?

The action of "the most professional match on the surface" was also established in the Giorgio Armani show, which is separated by the Atlantic Ocean; the models who appeared in the Giorgio Armani show at the finale almost frantically touched up their makeup throughout the show!

It is clear to remind the audience that the styling of the second half of the show is all for a grand banquet.

If you are curious about the make-up products on the hands of the model, let me tell you that what she has in her hand is Giorgio Armani light translucent high-gloss long-lasting makeup powder.

Giorgio Armani's autumn and winter show is full of fun, and the model's hand is this light and bright high-gloss long-wearing honey powder, which is priced at 2,700 yuan.


(Da Zhi)

detail mania

It is not an exaggeration to describe the exquisite details of this season's show as "three minutes on stage, ten years off stage".

This season, Prada dismantled common uniform inspirations in daily life. Among them, the bridal dresses are on white skirts with different cuts, and are transformed into the image of lily of the valley through lace, embroidery, tassels and other details, so as to echo the beauty in the hands of the bride. A bouquet of flowers.

A similar concept is also displayed on the high-heeled shoes with blooming flowers on the pointed toe, and the handbag decorated with special embossed small flowers.

Prada embellishes the details of happiness with the flowers and leaves on the skirt.

(Associated Press)

Prada embellished the skirt with full-bodied flowers to echo the bouquet in the bride's hand.

(Associated Press)

After celebrating the 25th birthday of the classic "Baguette bag", Fendi picked up another signature bag "Peekaboo" this season to play tricks.

In the past, the bag style has always been simple and neat. This time, holes are put on the outside of the bag body, and it is crafted with weaving to create a sense of craftsmanship.

This raffia material weaving method is reminiscent of the spring and summer design, and it also uses two completely different bags, the "Multi" and "C'mon" newly unveiled this season, to add rich layers to the minimalist silhouette .

The woven bag craft on the Fendi show is another highlight.

Fendi uses delicate perforated weaving designs on a variety of bags including the classic "Peekaboo", adding rich layers to the simple silhouette.

When it comes to details, of course the "King of Cashmere" Brunello Cucinelli is indispensable!

The new autumn and winter series with the theme of "playing the sound of the times" is the same as the brand's previous style, with neutral and soft tones as the main axis, but it uses classic cashmere, fluffy mohair, alpaca and other rich textures. Knitting, embroidery and other techniques are skillfully blended, supplemented by the balance of glossy sequins and matte wool, so that every single product in the series is as brisk and freehand as a brisk music, but not monotonous at all.

Brunello Cucinelli's styling keeps the colors minimalist, and only uses rich texture changes to bring intriguing and interesting layers to the styling.

not what you see

Remember when Matthieu Blazy took over Bottega Veneta's debut in 2022, a white vest made of leather with denim pants became the focus of the topic?

Coming to be in charge of the third season, this set of looks not only made its finale appearance again, but also used the concept of "seeing is not believing" throughout the show.

This season is the final chapter of his "Italian Trilogy", inspired by the carnival where all kinds of people gather, bringing rich style changes.

Interestingly, not only denim pants, but also light and soft striped pajamas, shirts, brown paper bag-like handbags, and even the knitted socks on the models' feet are all made of leather. Even the "crocodile leather" jacket is also made of special printing. With three-dimensional embossing, the cowhide is made into a luxurious leather texture. When you touch it with your hands, you will be amazed by these unexpected textures again!

The three-dimensional decoration and tassels on the Bottega Veneta dress are all made of leather, and the inside is woven with the brand's signature Intrecciato weaving process.

At the Bottega Veneta show, the knitted socks on the models' feet are also made of leather.

Bottega Veneta's show uses cowhide materials to present rich textures such as denim pants, cotton pajamas, and rare leather coats.

Hogan, who also exhibited a new autumn and winter design at Milan Fashion Week, reimagines the classic logo through the perspective of contemporary aesthetics.

The "H" pattern, which represents the brand, presents a different flavor through rich visual effects such as plain outline, laser cutting, and sparkling. A series of shoes and bags perfectly reflect the practical and sustainable value that consumers care most about.

Including sneakers and loafers, all of them have a thick vertical groove design with a full sense of weight, which can be easily worn with a slim proportion, and the unimaginable lightness also brings a comfortable wearing experience.

Seasonal suede boots and mini bags, although all made of artificial leather, can also be worn with a noble texture, perfectly in line with the concept of environmental protection.

Hogan's chunky platform shoes are unimaginably light, and the suede accessories are all made of artificial leather.

Hogan's chunky platform shoes are unimaginably light, and the suede accessories are all made of artificial leather.

back to reality

Maybe it is the global epidemic that has lasted for three years, maybe it is the sluggish economy, or maybe the Ukrainian-Russian war on the other side of the world is still a lingering nightmare... In the past, people were regarded as indifferent to worldly affairs and extremely exaggerated. Fashion runway, 2023 autumn and winter not only many brands reflect this social atmosphere through quiet, low-key and even moderate fashion styles, many of which are practical (admit it, this is not common in show styles) but also Sophisticated styling without sacrificing style.

For example, in recent years, Prada has already disassembled and reorganized the "uniforms" that are common in daily life as one of the brand's classic codes. It happened that the news of Russia's invasion of Ukraine came out a few hours before the opening of the brand show a year ago. Although this war that shocked the world did not interrupt the fashion week schedule, it obviously had a profound impact on the hearts of the two directors, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, so that on this season's runway, the tenderness expressed through clothing can be seen everywhere Care and safety protection, derived from common elements in military uniforms and nurse clothing, are integrated into the design, turning uniforms that were difficult to describe as "beautiful" in the past into "daily high-order uniforms" that are practical and practical.

Prada has turned uniforms, which were difficult to describe as "beautiful" in the past, into "everyday haute couture" that can be worn and worn.

In addition to bridal gowns this season, Prada also celebrates heroes in everyday life by transforming uniforms such as military uniforms and nurse uniforms.

Also embracing pragmatism is Tod's. The short bomber jacket is transformed with soft nappa leather, and there is also an ankle-length coat that blows the wind and sand on the runway as the model walks. Creative director Walter Chiapponi uses rich and diverse pieces depict a modern wardrobe that is both everyday and essential.

FERRAGAMO is inspired by the future style in the eyes of the 1950s, which is full of modernity and wearability.

Even Moschino, which has always been "clothes that are not astonishing and endless", although the autumn and winter seasons incorporate the surreal concept of Salvator Dali, they also appear to be low-key and restrained.

The various coats on the Tod's show are eye-catching.

Inspired by the futuristic style in the eyes of the 1950s, FERRAGAMO has a modern look without compromising wearability.

Moschino's styling is much more understated than in the past.

Courtesy of: Bottega Veneta, Brunello Cucinelli, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, FERRAGAMO, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Hogan, Max Mara, Moschino, Prada, Tod's

Further reading: 

〈Fashion Avenue 2-1〉See Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter


2023 Paris Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2023 pays homage to the classic era